Cosmetics

Cosmetics


Cosmetics are care substances used to enhance
the appearance or odor of the human body. They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds,
some being derived from natural sources, many being synthetic.
In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration, which regulates cosmetics, defines cosmetics
as “intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness,
or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions.” This broad
definition also includes any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.
The FDA specifically excludes soap from this category. History The word cosmetics derives from the Greek
κοσμητικὴ τέχνη, meaning “technique of dress and ornament”, from κοσμητικός,
“skilled in ordering or arranging” and that from κόσμος, meaning amongst others
“order” and “ornament”. The first archeological evidence of cosmetics comes from the hollowed
out tombs of the Ancient Egyptian pharaohs. Archaeological evidence of cosmetics dates
at least from ancient Egypt and Greece. According to one source, early major developments include:
Castor oil used by ancient Egypt as a protective balm.
Skin creams made of beeswax, olive oil, and rosewater, described by Romans.
Vaseline and lanolin in the nineteenth century. Nivea in 1911.
The Ancient Greeks also used cosmetics. Cosmetics are mentioned in the Old Testament, such as
in 2 Kings 9:30, where Jezebel painted her eyelids—approximately 840 BC—and in the
book of Esther, where various beauty treatments are described.
One of the most popular Traditional Chinese Medicines is the fungus Tremella fuciformis;
used as a beauty product by women in China and Japan. The fungus reportedly increases
moisture retention in the skin and prevents senile degradation of micro-blood vessels
in the skin, reducing wrinkles and smoothing fine lines. Other anti-ageing effects come
from increasing the presence of superoxide dismutase in the brain and liver; it is an
enzyme that acts as a potent antioxidant throughout the body, particularly in the skin.
Cosmetic use was frowned upon at many points in Western history. For example, in the 19th
century, Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup improper, vulgar, and acceptable only
for use by actors. During the sixteenth century, the personal
attributes of the women who used make-up created a demand for the product among the upper class.
Of the major cosmetics firms, the largest is L’Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller
in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company. The market was developed in the USA
during the 1910s by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max Factor. These firms were
joined by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after.
Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers, who have
more recently been joined online by established outlets, including the major department stores
and traditional bricks and mortar beauty retailers. Although modern make-up has been traditionally
used mainly by women, an increasing number of males are gradually using cosmetics usually
associated to women to enhance or cover their own facial features. Concealer is commonly
used by self-conscious men. Cosmetics brands release cosmetic products especially tailored
for men, and men are increasingly using such products.
Makeup types Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions,
powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye and facial makeup, towelettes,
permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants,
hand sanitizer, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and many
other types of products. A subset of cosmetics is called “make-up,” which refers primarily
to coloring products intended to alter the user’s appearance. Many manufacturers distinguish
between decorative cosmetics and care cosmetics. Cosmetics that are meant to be applied to
the face and eye area are usually applied with a brush or the fingertips.
Most cosmetics are distinguished by the area of the body intended for application.
Primer, come in various formulas to suit individual skin conditions. Most are meant to reduce
the appearance of pore size, prolong the wear of makeup, and allow for a smoother application
of makeup, and are applied before foundation. Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper,
lip balm, lip conditioner, lip primer, and lip boosters. Lipsticks are intended to add
color and texture to the lips and often come in a wide range of colors, as well as finishes
such as matte, satin and lustre. Lip stains have a water or gel base and may contain alcohol
to help the product stay on the lips. The idea behind lip stains is to temporarily saturate
the lips with a dye. Usually designed to be waterproof, the product may come with an applicator
brush, rollerball, or be applied with a finger. Lip glosses are intended to add shine to the
lips, and may also add a tint of color, as well as being scented or flavored. Lip balms
are most often used to moisturize and protect the lips. They often contain SPF protection.
Concealer, makeup used to cover any imperfections of the skin. Concealer is often used for any
extra coverage needed to cover blemishes, undereye circles, and other imperfections.
Concealer is often thicker and more solid than foundation, and provides longer lasting,
more detailed coverage. Some formulations are meant only for the eye or only for the
face. This product can also be used for contouring your face like your nose, cheekbones, and
jaw line. Foundation is used to smooth out the face
and cover spots or uneven skin coloration. Usually a liquid, cream, or powder, as well
as most recently a light and fluffy mousse. Foundation provides coverage from sheer to
full depending on preference. Foundation primer can be applied before or after foundation
to obtain a smoother finish. Some primers come in powder or liquid form to be applied
before foundation as a base, while other primers come as a spray to be applied after the foundation
to help the make-up last longer. Face powder is used to set the foundation,
giving it a matte finish, and also to conceal small flaws or blemishes. Tinted face powders
may also be worn alone as a light foundation. Rouge, blush or blusher is cheek coloring
used to bring out the color in the cheeks and make the cheekbones appear more defined.
Rouge comes in powder, cream, and liquid forms. Contour powder/creams are used to define the
face. They can be used to give the illusion of a slimmer face or to modify a person’s
face shape in other desired ways. Usually a few shades darker than one’s own skin tone
and matte in finish, contour products create the illusion of depth. A darker toned foundation/concealer
can be used instead of contour products for a more natural look.
Highlight, used to draw attention to the high points of the face as well as to add glow
to the face, comes in liquid, cream, and powder forms. It often contains a substance to provide
shimmer. A lighter toned foundation/concealer can be used instead of highlight to create
a more natural look. Bronzer is used to give skin a bit of color
by adding a golden or bronze glow, as well as being used for contouring. It comes in
either matte, semi matte/satin, or shimmer finishes.
Mascara is used to darken, lengthen, thicken, or draw attention to the eyelashes. It is
available in natural colors such as brown and black, but also comes in bolder colors
such as blue, pink, or purple. Some mascaras also include glitter flecks. There are many
different formulas, including waterproof versions for those prone to allergies or sudden tears.
It is often used after an eyelash curler and mascara primer. Many mascaras now have certain
components intended to help lashes appear longer and thicker. Eyeliner is used to enhance and elongate the
size of the eye. Eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels and powders
are used to color and define the brows. Nail polish is used to color the fingernails
and toenails. Transparent, colorless versions may be used to strengthen nails, or used as
a top or base coat to protect the nail or polish.
Setting Spray is used to keep applied makeup intact for long periods of time. An alternative
to setting spray is setting powder, which may be either pigmented or translucent.
False eyelashes are frequently used when extravagant and exaggerated eyelashes are desired. Their
basic design usually consists of human hair or synthetic materials attached to a thin
cloth-like band, which is applied with an eyelash glue to the lashline. Designs vary
from short, natural-looking lashes to extremely long, wispy, rainbow-colored lashes. Rhinestones,
gems, and even feathers and lace occur on some false eyelash designs.
Cosmetics can be also described by the physical composition of the product. Cosmetics can
be liquid or cream emulsions; powders, both pressed and loose; dispersions; and anhydrous
creams or sticks. Makeup remover is a product used to remove
the makeup products applied on the skin. It is used to clean the skin before other procedures,
like applying bedtime lotion. Skin care products
Skin care products can also fall under the general category of cosmetics. These are products
used to improve the appearance and health of skin, formulated for different types of
skin and associated characteristics. Skin care products include cleansers, facial masks,
toners, moisturizers, sunscreen, tanning oils and lotions, skin lighteners, serums and exfoliants.
Skin types There are four basic skin types & two skin
conditions: Normal skin
This type of skin has a fine, even and smooth surface due to its ideal balance between oil
and moisture content and is therefore neither greasy nor dry. People who have normal skin
have small, barely-visible pores. Thus, their skin usually appears clear and does not frequently
develop spots and blemishes. This type of skin needs minimal and gentle treatment, but
does still require maintenance. Dry skin
Dry skin has a parched appearance and tends to flake easily. It is prone to wrinkles and
lines due to its inability to retain moisture, as well as an inadequate production of sebum
by sebaceous glands. Dry skin often has problems in cold weather, which dries it out even further.
Constant protection in the form of a moisturizer by day and a moisture-rich cream by night
is essential. It is important not to over-exfoliate even in cases of extreme flaking, as this
only dries out the skin further; gentle exfoliating using sugar, rice bran or mild acids are the
most suitable, although they should not be used more frequently than once per week to
avoid causing irritation and dryness. Oily skin
As its names implies, this type of skin surface is slightly to moderately greasy, which is
caused by the over secretion of sebum. The excess oil on the surface of the skin causes
dirt and dust from the environment to adhere to it. Oily skin is usually prone to blackheads,
whiteheads, spots and pimples. It needs to be cleansed thoroughly every day, especially
in hot or humid weather. Moisturizing with an oil-free, water-based and non-comedogenic
moisturizer is required in addition. Exfoliation is also necessary, but over-exfoliation can
cause irritation and increase in oil production; exfoliants that contain fruit acids are particularly
helpful, and fine-grained exfoliants may help to clear blocked pores, discouraging breakouts
and improving the skin’s appearance. Combination skin
This is the common type of skin. As the name suggests, it is a combination of both oily
and dry or normal skin, where certain areas of the face are oily and the others dry. The
oily parts are usually found on a central panel, called the T–Zone, consisting of
the forehead, nose and chin. The dry areas usually consist of the cheeks and the areas
around the eyes and mouth. In such cases, each part of the face should be treated according
to its skin type. There are also skin care products made especially for those who have
combination skin; these contain ingredients that cater to both skin types.
Skin conditions Sensitive skin
Sensitive skin is a common skin condition which has a tendency to react to many potential
triggers with irritation, redness, stinging or burning, flaking, lumpiness, and rashes.
Our skin condition changing into sensitive normally causes from our immune system disorders
or the changes of our health conditions. The most common causes of irritation are chemical
dyes and fragrances, soaps, some flower and spice oils, shaving creams, tanning lotions
or spray tans, changes in temperature, excessive cleansing or exfoliating, waxing, threading,
shaving, and bleaching. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid products with unnecessary
fragrances or dyes, and generally avoid using products that cause irritation. Sensitive
skin is typically dry, but can be oily, normal, or combination as well.
Acne-prone skin Acne is a common skin condition that occurs
when skin pores become clogged and bacteria settles in, causing the pore to become infected.
Several factors can contribute to developing acne such as oily skin, hormones, diet, skin
care products and even your skin care routine. If we are changing the lifestyle and diet
in our everyday routine, acne is treatable and even prevented with applying the right
skin care products. General skin care routines
Cleansing Cleansing is the first essential step to any
daily skin care routine. Cleansers are generally applied to wet skin over the face and sometimes
also the neck, avoiding the eyes and lips. Cleansing the face once per day is typically
adequate for normal or dry skins. However, a mild cleanser should also be used at night
if makeup has been worn to remove any excess dirt or oil. Oily skins should be cleansed
more frequently, at least twice per day. Water-based, gentle cleansers are ideal for all skin types,
though particularly acne-prone skin may require medicated cleansers containing benzoyl peroxide
or salicylic acid to discourage acne. While soap can be used as a cleanser, it should
be avoided in cases of dry and sensitive skins; many alternatives are available. Oil-based
cleansers have become particularly popular with oily skin, as they are very gentle and
do not over-dry the skin, but still effectively remove dirt and makeup. It is important to
cleanse before applying makeup, regardless of skin type, as this helps to create a clean
surface for makeup application. Many cleansers are also suitable for use as a makeup remover,
but a proper makeup remover is preferable, particularly for the removal of eye makeup.
Masks Face masks are treatments applied to the skin
for a period of time, then removed. Typically, they are applied to a dry, cleansed face,
avoiding the eyes and lips. There are many kinds of face masks available,
which typically fall into one or more of the following categories:
Clay-based masks use kaolin clay or fuller’s earth to transport essential oils and chemicals
to the skin, and are typically left on until completely dry. As the clay dries, it absorbs
excess oil and dirt from the surface of the skin and may help to clear blocked pores or
draw comedones to the surface. Because of its drying actions, clay-based masks should
only be used on oily skins. Peel masks are typically gel-like in consistency,
and contain various acids or exfoliating agents to help exfoliate the skin, along with other
ingredients to hydrate, discourage wrinkles, or treat uneven skin tone. They are also left
on to dry, and then gently peeled off. They should be avoided by people with dry skin,
as they also tend to be very drying. Sheet masks are a relatively new product that
are becoming extremely popular in Asia. Sheet masks consist of a thin cotton or fiber sheet
with holes cut out for the eyes and lips and cut to fit the contours of the face, onto
which serums and skin treatments are brushed in a thin layer; the sheets may also be soaked
in the treatment. Masks are available to suit almost all skin types and skin complaints.
Sheet masks are quicker, less messy, and require no specialized knowledge or equipment for
their use compared to other types of face masks, but they may be difficult to find and
purchase outside of Asia. Exfoliants
Exfoliants are products that help slough off dry, dead skin cells to improve the skin’s
appearance. This is achieved either by using acids or other chemicals to loosen old skin
cells, or abrasive substances to physically scrub them off. Exfoliation can even out patches
of rough skin, improve circulation to the skin, clear blocked pores to discourage acne
and improve the appearance and healing of scars. Exfoliants should be applied to wet,
cleansed skin, avoiding the eye area; abrasive exfoliants or scrubs should then be rubbed
into the skin in a circular motion for at least 30 seconds. Dry skin should only be
exfoliated in spots with severe flaking, and no more than once per week; oily skins may
be able to tolerate twice weekly exfoliation. Signs of over-exfoliation include sore, dry
and irritated or reddened skin and excessive dryness or oiliness.
Chemical exfoliants may include citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, lactic
acid or salicylic acid. They may be liquids or gels, and may or may not contain an abrasive
to remove old skin cells afterwards. Abrasive exfoliants include gels, creams or lotions,
as well as physical objects. Loofahs, microfibre cloths, natural sponges or brushes may be
used to exfoliate skin, simply by rubbing them over the face in a circular motion. Gels,
creams or lotions may contain an acid to encourage dead skin cells to loosen, and an abrasive
such as beads, sea salt, sugar, ground nut shells, rice bran or ground apricot kernels
to scrub the dead cells off the skin. Salt and sugar scrubs tend to be the harshest,
while scrubs containing beads or rice bran are typically very gentle.
Toning Toners are used after cleansing the skin to
freshen it up and remove any traces of cleanser, mask or makeup, as well to help restore the
skin’s natural pH. They are usually applied to a cotton pad and wiped over the skin, but
can also be sprayed onto the skin from a spray bottle.
Toners typically contain alcohol, water, and herbal extracts or other chemicals depending
on skin type. Toners containing alcohol are quite astringent, and usually targeted at
oily skins. Dry or normal skin should be treated with alcohol-free toners. Witch hazel solution
is a popular toner for all skin types, but many other products are available. Many toners
also contain salicylic acid and/or benzoyl peroxide. These types of toners are also targeted
at oily skin types, as well as acne-prone skin.
Moisturizing Moisturizers are creams or lotions that hydrate
the skin and help it to retain moisture; they may also contain various essential oils, herbal
extracts or chemicals to assist with oil control or reducing irritation. Night creams are typically
more hydrating than day creams, but may be too thick or heavy to wear during the day,
hence their name. Tinted moisturizers contain a small amount of foundation, which can provide
light coverage for minor blemishes or to even out skin tones. They are usually applied with
the fingertips or a cotton pad to the entire face, avoiding the lips and area around the
eyes. All skin types need moisturizing. Moisturizer
helps prevent flaking and dryness, and may help to delay the formation of wrinkles. People
with dry skin should choose oil-based moisturizers with ingredients to help the skin retain moisture
and protect it from dryness, heat or cold in the environment. People with normal skin
can choose from a wide variety of moisturizers, but light lotions or gels are typically all
that is required. Water-based, low-oil and non-comedogenic moisturizers should be used
on oily skin; medicated moisturizers containing tea tree extracts or fruit enzymes can help
to control oil production or treat acne. Eyes require a different kind of moisturizer
compared with the rest of the face. The skin around the eyes is extremely thin and sensitive,
and is often the first area to show signs of ageing. Eye creams are typically very light
lotions or gels, and are usually very gentle; some may contain ingredients such as caffeine
or Vitamin K to reduce puffiness and dark circles under the eyes. Eye creams or gels
should be applied over the entire eye area with a finger, using a patting motion.
Protecting Sun protection is an important aspect of skin
care. The sun can cause extreme damage to the skin, not only in the form of sunburns
and skin cancer; exposure to UVA and UVB radiation can cause patches of uneven skin tone and
dry out the skin, reducing its elasticity and encouraging sagging and wrinkle formation.
It is important to make use of sunscreen to protect the skin from sun damage; sunscreen
should be applied at least 20 minutes before exposure, and should be re-applied every four
hours. Sunscreen should be applied to all areas of the skin that will be exposed to
sunlight, and at least a tablespoon should be applied to each limb, the face, chest,
and back, to ensure thorough coverage. Many tinted moisturizers, foundations and primers
now contain some form of SPF. Sunscreens may come in the form of creams,
gels or lotions; their SPF number indicates their effectiveness in protecting the skin
from the sun’s radiation. There are sunscreens available to suit every skin type; in particular,
those with oily skin should choose non-comodegenic sunscreens; those with dry skins should choose
sunscreens with moisturizers to help keep skin hydrated, and those with sensitive skin
should choose unscented, hypoallergenic sunscreen and spot-test in an inconspicuous place to
ensure that it does not irritate the skin. Ingredients Ingredient listings in cosmetics are highly
regulated in many countries. Organic and natural ingredients
Once a niche market, handmade and certified organic products are becoming more mainstream.
Even though many cosmetic products are regulated, health concerns persist regarding the presence
of harmful chemicals in these products. Aside from color additives, cosmetic products and
their ingredients are not subject to regulation prior to their release on the market. Many
new products are released every season, often after only slight testing. Many cosmetic companies
claim to produce “all natural” and “organic” products. Products claimed to be organic should
be certified “USDA Organic”. Mineral makeup
The term “mineral makeup” applies to a category of face makeup, including foundation, eye
shadow, blush, and bronzer, made with loose, dry mineral powders. Lipsticks, liquid foundations,
and other liquid cosmetics, as well as compressed makeups such as eye shadow and blush in compacts,
are also often called mineral makeup if they have the same primary ingredients as dry mineral
makeups. However, liquid makeups must contain preservatives and compressed makeups must
contain binders, which dry mineral makeups do not.
Ingredients The main ingredients in mineral makeups are
usually coverage pigments, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, both of which are also
physical sunscreens. Other main ingredients include mica and pigmenting
minerals, such as iron oxide, tin oxide, and magnesium myristate.
Mineral makeup usually does not contain synthetic fragrances, preservatives, parabens, mineral
oil, and chemical dyes. For this reason, many dermatologists consider mineral makeup to
be purer and kinder to the skin than makeup that contains those ingredients.
However, some mineral makeups contain Bismuth oxychloride, which can be irritating to the
skin of sensitive individuals. Others also contain talc, over which there is some controversy
because of its comedogenic tendencies and because some people are sensitive to talc.
Benefits Because titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have
anti-inflammatory properties, mineral makeups with those ingredients can also have a calming
effect on the skin, which is particularly important for those who suffer from inflammatory
problems such as rosacea. Zinc oxide is also anti-microbial, so mineral makeups can be
beneficial for people with acne. Mineral makeup is noncomedogenic and offers
a mild amount of sun protection. Because they do not contain liquid ingredients,
mineral makeups can last in their containers indefinitely as long as the user does not
contaminate them with other liquid or fingertips. Cosmetic industry The manufacture of cosmetics is currently
dominated by a small number of multinational corporations that originated in the early
20th century, but the distribution and sale of cosmetics is spread among a wide range
of different businesses. The worlds largest cosmetic companies are The L’Oréal Group,
The Procter & Gamble Company, Unilever, Shiseido Company, Limited and Estée Lauder Companies,
Inc. The market volume of the cosmetics industry in the US, Europe, and Japan is about EUR
70B/y, according to a 2005 publication. In the United States, the cosmetic industry’s
size was US$42.8 billion in 2008. In Germany, the cosmetic industry generated €12.6 billion
of retail sales in 2008, which makes the German cosmetic industry the third largest in the
world, after Japan and the United States. It has been shown that in Germany this industry
grew nearly 5 percent in one year, from 2007 to 2008. German exports in this industry reached
€5.8 billion in 2008, whereas imports of cosmetics totaled €3 billion. The main countries
that export cosmetics to Germany are France, Switzerland, the United States and Italy,
and they mainly consist of makeup and fragrances or perfumes for women.
The worldwide cosmetics and perfume industry currently generates an estimated annual turnover
of US$170 billion. Europe is the leading market, representing approximately €63 billion,
while sales in France reached €6.5 billion in 2006, according to FIPAR. France is another
country in which the cosmetic industry plays an important role, both nationally and internationally.
Most products with a label, “Made in France” are valued on the international market. According
to data from 2008, the cosmetic industry has grown constantly in France for 40 consecutive
years. In 2006, this industrial sector reached a record level of €6.5 billion. Famous cosmetic
brands produced in France include Vichy, Yves Saint Laurent, Yves Rocher and many others. The Italian cosmetic industry is also an important
player in the European cosmetic market. Although not as large as in other European countries,
the cosmetic industry in Italy was estimated to reach €9 billion in 2007. The Italian
cosmetic industry is however dominated by hair and body products and not makeup as in
many other European countries. In Italy, hair and body products make up approximately 30%
of the cosmetic market. Makeup and facial care, however, are the most common cosmetic
products exported to the United States. Due to the popularity of cosmetics, especially
fragrances and perfumes, many designers who are not necessarily involved in the cosmetic
industry came up with different perfumes carrying their names. Moreover, some actors and singers
have their own perfume line. Designer perfumes are, like any other designer products, the
most expensive in the industry as the consumer pays not only for the product but also for
the brand. Famous Italian fragrances are produced by Giorgio Armani, Dolce and Gabbana, and
others. Recently, Procter & Gamble, which sells CoverGirl
and Dolce & Gabbana makeup, funded a study concluding that makeup makes women seem more
competent. Due to the source of funding, the quality of this Boston University study is
questioned. The cosmetic industry worldwide seems to be
continuously developing, now more than ever with the advent of the Internet companies.
Many famous companies sell their cosmetic products online also in countries in which
they do not have representatives. Research on the email marketing of cosmetics
to consumers suggests they are goal-oriented with email content that is seen as useful,
motivating recipients to visit a store to test the cosmetics or talk to sales representatives.
Useful content included special sales offerings and new product information rather than information
about makeup trends. Criticism and controversy
During the 20th century, the popularity of cosmetics increased rapidly. Cosmetics are
increasingly used by girls at a young age, especially in the United States. Due to the
fast-decreasing age of make-up users, many companies, from high-street brands like Rimmel
to higher-end products like Estee Lauder, cater to this expanding market by introducing
flavored lipsticks and glosses, cosmetics packaged in glittery, sparkly packaging and
marketing and advertising using young models. The social consequences of younger and younger
cosmetics use has had much attention in the media over the last few years.
Criticism of cosmetics has come from a wide variety of sources including some feminists,
religious groups, animal rights activists, authors, and public interest groups.
Safety In the United States, cosmetic products are
regulated by the FDA following the FD&C Act section 201. According to these regulations
it is illegal to sell unsafe cosmetic products. The EU and other regulatory agencies around
the world have similar regulations. The FDA does not have to approve or review cosmetics,
or what goes in them, before they are sold to the consumers. The FDA only regulates against
the colors that can be used in the cosmetics and hair dyes. The cosmetic companies do not
have to report any injuries from the products; they also only have voluntary recalls of products.
There has been a marketing trend towards the sale of cosmetics lacking controversial ingredients,
especially those derived from petroleum, sodium lauryl sulfate, and parabens. Numerous reports
have raised concern over the safety of a few surfactants, including 2-butoxyethanol. SLS
causes a number of skin problems, including dermatitis.
Parabens can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis in individuals with paraben allergies,
a small percentage of the general population. Animal experiments have shown that parabens
have a weak estrogenic activity, acting as xenoestrogens. In 2013, the EU’s Scientific
Committee on Consumer Safety reviewed the latest safety data on parabens and declared
them to be harmless at the levels used in cosmetics. Synthetic fragrances are widely used in consumer
products. Studies concluded from patch testing show synthetic fragrances are made of many
ingredients which cause allergic reactions. Balsam of Peru was the main recommended marker
for perfume allergy before 1977, which is still advised. The presence of Balsam of Peru
in a cosmetic will be denoted by the INCI term Myroxylon pereirae. In some instances,
Balsam of Peru is listed on the ingredient label of a product by one of its various names,
but it may not be required to be listed by its name by mandatory labeling conventions.
Cosmetics companies have been criticized for making pseudo-scientific claims about their
products which are misleading or unsupported by scientific evidence.
Often, though, the speculation of safety of cosmetics originates from scare stories and
internet hoaxes unsupported by science. Many ingredients deemed unsafe by the media have
been found safe by scientists in the EU where astringent regulations are enforced.
Animal testing Cosmetics testing on animals is particularly
controversial. Such tests involve general toxicity, eye and skin irritancy, phototoxicity,
and mutagenicity. Cosmetics testing is banned in the Netherlands,
Belgium, and the UK, and in 2002, after 13 years of discussion, the European Union agreed
to phase in a near-total ban on the sale of animal-tested cosmetics throughout the EU
from 2009, and to ban all cosmetics-related animal testing. France, which is home to the
world’s largest cosmetics company, L’Oreal, has protested the proposed ban by lodging
a case at the European Court of Justice in Luxembourg, asking that the ban be quashed.
The ban is also opposed by the European Federation for Cosmetics Ingredients, which represents
70 companies in Switzerland, Belgium, France, Germany, and Italy.
Legislation Europe
In the European Union the manufacture, labelling and supply of cosmetics and personal care
products are Regulated by Regulation EC 1223/2009. It applies to all the countries of the EU
as well as Iceland, Norway and Switzerland. This regulation applies to single-person companies
making or importing just one product as well as to large multinationals. Manufacturers
and importers of cosmetic products must comply with the applicable regulations in order to
sell their products in the EU. In this industry it is common fall back on a suitably qualified
person, such as an independent third party inspection and testing company, to verify
the cosmetics’ compliance with the requirements of applicable cosmetic regulations and other
relevant legislation, including REACH, GMP, hazardous substances, etc.
In the European Union, the circulation of cosmetic products and their safety has been
a subject of legislation since 1976. One of the newest improvement of the regulation concerning
cosmetic industry is a result of the ban animal testing. Testing cosmetic products on animals
has been illegal in the European Union since September 2004, and testing the separate ingredients
of such products on animals is also prohibited by law, since March 2009 for some endpoints
and full since 2013. Cosmetic regulations in Europe are often updated
to follow the trends of innovations and new technologies while ensuring product safety.
For instance, all annexes of the Regulation 1223/2009 were aimed to address potential
risks to human health. Under the EU cosmetic regulation, manufacturers, retailers and importers
of cosmetics in Europe will be designated as “Responsible Person”. This new status
implies that the responsible person has the legal liability to ensure that the cosmetics
and brands they manufacture or sell comply with the current cosmetic regulations and
norms. The responsible person is also responsible of the documents contained in the Product
Information File, a list of product information including data such as Cosmetic Product Safety
Report, product description, GMP statement or product function.
United States In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration
is the body making legislation in what concerns cosmetic industry and its various aspects
within the United States. The FDA joined with thirteen other Federal agencies in forming
the Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods in 1997,
which is an attempt to ban animal testing and find other methods to test cosmetic products.
Brazil The Anvisa is the Brazil’s Health Agency,
the regulatory body responsible for cosmetic legislation and directives in the country.
The rules apply to manufacturers, importers and retailers of cosmetics in Brazil, and
most of them have been harmonized so they can apply to the entire Mercosur.
The current legislation restricts the use of certain substances such as pyrogallol,
formaldehyde or paraformaldehyde and bans the use of others such as lead acetate in
cosmetic products. All restricted and forbidden substances and products are listed in the
regulation RDC 16/11 and RDC 162, 0901. More recently, a new cosmetic Technical Regulation
was set up to establish a list of authorized and restricted substances for cosmetic use,
used in products such as hair dyes, nail hardeners or used as product preservatives.
Most Brazilian regulations are optimized, harmonized or adapted in order to be applicable
and extended to the entire Mercosur economic zone.
International The International Organization for Standardization
published new guidelines on the safe manufacturing of cosmetic products under a Good Manufacturing
Practices regime. Regulators in several countries and regions have adopted this standard, ISO
22716:2007, effectively replacing existing guidance and standards. ISO 22716 provides
a comprehensive approach for a quality management system for those engaged in the manufacturing,
packaging, testing, storage, and transportation of cosmetic end products. The standard deals
with all aspects of the supply chain, from the early delivery of raw materials and components
until the shipment of the final product to the consumer.
The standard is based on other quality management systems, ensuring smooth integration with
such systems as ISO 9001 or the British Retail Consortium standard for consumer products.
Therefore, it combines the benefits of GMP, linking cosmetic product safety with overall
business improvement tools that enable organisations to meet global consumer demand for cosmetic
product safety certification. In July 2012, since microbial contamination
is one of the greatest concerns regarding the quality of cosmetic products, the International
Organization for Standardization has introduced a new standard for evaluating the antimicrobial
protection of a cosmetic product by preservation efficacy testing and microbiological risk
assessment. Cosmetic careers An account executive is responsible for visiting
department and specialty stores with counter sales of cosmetics. They explain new products
and “gifts with purchase” arrangements. A beauty adviser provides product advice based
on the client’s skin care and makeup requirements. Beauty advisers can be certified by an Anti-Aging
Beauty Institute. A cosmetician is a professional who provides
facial and body treatments for clients. The term cosmetologist is sometimes used interchangeably
with this term, but the former most commonly refers to a certified professional. A freelance
makeup artist provides clients with beauty advice and cosmetics assistance. They are
usually paid by the hour by a cosmetic company, however they sometimes work independently.
Professionals in cosmetics marketing careers manage research focus groups, promote the
desired brand image, and provide other marketing services.
Many involved within the cosmetics industry often specialize in a certain area of cosmetics
such as special effects makeup or makeup techniques specific to the film, media and fashion sectors.
See also References Further reading
Winter, Ruth [2005]. A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information
About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients in Cosmetics. US: Three Rivers Press. ISBN 1-4000-5233-5. 
Begoun, Paula [2003]. Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me(Paperback). US: Beginning
Press. ISBN 1-877988-30-8.  Carrasco, Francisco [2009]. Diccionario de
Ingredientes Cosmeticos(Paperback). Spain: www.imagenpersonal.net. ISBN 978-84-613-4979-1. 

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