Needling Explained: Nano | Cosmetic | Medical | Intro to needling

Needling Explained: Nano | Cosmetic | Medical | Intro to needling


You are new here, my name is penny. I am a master esthetician in Portland Oregon today I just want to do a quick overview of the three types of needling that I think can be in everybody’s repertoire when it comes to healthy skin the goal of micro needling whether it is nano cosmetic or medical needling is just simply Healthy skin we are going for, you know more plumpness more hydration better Bounce more, you know collagen and elastin fibers Just healthy skin that is the goal with needling I do think that there are a lot of terms that are thrown around and it’s very confusing So today I just want to take a quick few minutes go over. What each type is I’m gonna try and put some graphics up with some basic information about how often you can do these how you know the kind of products that you can use with each type of needling and Also some good practices. So we’re going to go over today. Nano needling cosmetic needling and medical needling Let’s get started with Nano. First of all, I brought home. My nano pen from work. This is Mira’s enter at pen I just I have these all laid out and setup. So here. I have it already set up I want to show you what a nano cartridge is now at home typically, I do use my a6 with a cartridge that looks just like this and a Nano cartridge what’s really important to know about that is that it isn’t there are no needles on that little square There are a bunch of little tiny cones that are a fraction of hair. That’s the size of them. They are just Smaller than the eye can actually see. In fact when we look at this. We just see a flat square It’s not it’s covered in these little tiny very very tiny smaller than a hair cones Okay, when this is turned on you can hear it buzzing. That’s what you will hear when it’s going over your face You will put down usually a higher like acid a vitamin C some growth factors tranexamic acid Kojic acid as the lake acid any of those kind of things will put down on your skin and then you will work them in With your nano pen the idea with nano is that we are working on Stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of our skin the outer outermost layer of our epidermis on our face That’s as far as nano goes. It isn’t penetrating any deeper and there’s no actual channels These little cones that are on here by virtue of vibration and their shape They’re kind of separating out the cells of that stratum corneum So that the things that we’ve put down whatever serum that we have chosen is able to kind of slide in in between the cells it’s a fantastic way to Treat that outermost layer of our skin. I really have come to believe that There’s a trifecta when it comes to needling we don’t need to only focus on collagen induction we also don’t need to only focus on product penetration and we definitely don’t only want to focus on this outer layer all Three will make us have the most healthy skin. So that is what nano is also The thing to note is that this is the preferred device and not not the resentiment but in general nano When you are doing the pigment portion of a BB glow treatment And you can kind of see why because when you’re putting that pigment down I don’t want it to go in further than that. Very most outer layer. I just want that pigment to kind of get in and work in that dead outer layer that will eventually Just be exfoliated off because then I’m limiting my exposure to anything bad and it’s very very surface So that is what I use with the pigment portion of the BB glow. So that is nano Okay Moving on to cosmetic needling we’re just going to move by depth cosmetic needling is defined as needles going in 0.3 Millimeters or more shallow think about 0.3 millimeters and just how little that is that is definitely just for product penetration and it only is affecting our Epidermis but because there are actual needles and I’m going to show you guys this is on my x5. There are actual needles these Actually go in and make channels that go 1/3 0.25 0.20 of a millimeter in Two your skin now Our epidermis is typically on our face about half a millimeter so you can see that if you stay with 0.3 or 0.25 Then you are staying in the epidermis. You’re not penetrating past the epidermis and going into the dermis So you’re not risking collagen induction or anything like that or interrupting a collagen cycle anything like that? Which is why with a cosmetic needling you can do it often For me, I like to do it once a week There are definitely people that will do it more often than that but you really just have to watch your irritation and I feel like a great schedule is once a week with your cosmetic needling and Once a week with your nano needling just spaced out a few days apart That way you’re effectively treating that stratum corneum And then you’re also a you know, treating your epidermis a little bit deeper with your cosmetic needling now I do use my Asics all the time for both my Nano and my cosmetic needling so all I have to do is swap out the cartridges in that same doctor pen a six and it becomes a Nano pen and then it becomes a cosmetic needling pen And if I just dial the pen up a little bit more it becomes a medical needling pen So I definitely suggest that whatever pen you decide that you might want to use definitely get one that has changeable cartridges so that you only have one pen that functions as three different types of Needling now the thing about the cosmetic needling you guys is that it is not Inducing any collagen it doesn’t go deep enough to spur collagen to be produced Which means that you don’t have to worry about that collagen cycle, like I said And you can do it as often as you want again I recommend once a week and I will definitely put in the graphics some Recommended products that you can use you can use vitamin C growth factors. You can use your higher ilanic acid The whole idea is to hydrate your skin to infuse it with good stuff and just to work on that Epidermis now when we’re talking about medical needling medical needling is anything half a millimeter or deeper So when you get to half a millimeter You are effectively getting in to the dermis the dermis. We’re collagen fibers live and That is where we want to induce collagen so when you’re talking about medical needling you’re talking about a depth you’re talking about half a millimeter or deeper and the reason why this is super important is at that point when you use certain products you can Cause granulomas there’s several things that can happen that are negative so you have to Really? Restrain yourself and be super careful with the things that you use with medical needling which as you guys all know I highly recommend high molecular weight high or low neck acid for its anti-inflammatory Properties and it’s just a knock you as’ you’re less likely to cause yourself any harm and you’re more likely to do yourself some good Now the actual action of medical micro-needling Causes your body to produce growth factors, and it causes your body to induce collagen So when you medical needle you want to spray space it out by at least four weeks the reason for that is that there is a collagen cycle and that collagen cycle typically peaks at about two weeks and Anything that interrupts that collagen cycle even after it Peaks and is coming back down it can just nullify What you’ve done it can stop it in his tracks So once you have done a medical needling let it do its thing and don’t medical needle until at least four weeks. Later Which is when you induce more collagen and you build on the collagen that you did last month So medical needling is 0.5 or deeper So as you can see the different types of needling are all about depths either we’re staying on the very surface We’re going in just a little bit further or we’re going in deep that is how the different types of needling are kind of split up and In those different places on our skin different processes are happening and we are trying to you know achieve different goals Whether it’s hydration infusion or collagen induction So those three types of needling are all super beneficial I believe that all of them can contribute to really good healthy skin and I definitely think that All of us can benefit from micro needling it’s one of those services or treatments that you can do on yourself. That is relatively non-invasive produces natural resolve now I do want to say that you can definitely derma roll versus use a pen and in this book Which I know I talk about all the time, but in dermal needling a funny thing that dr Lance Satterfield who I consider to be the guru of Micro needling something that he says in here is a derma roller a stamp a pen. Just make the holes just do it Just put down the channels they all work. If you have a quality derma roller, and you are happy with it That is good. That is micro needling depending on the depth. If you have a derma roller that’s point to oh like the glopro That is just cosmetic needling if you have a derma roller that is 0.5 0.751 That is a medical derma roller. It’s going to needle into a Medical needling depth definitely when it comes to cosmetic needling and micro and Medical micro needling derma rollers are great You guys stamps are great. So there’s lots of different ways to achieve The channels I prefer the pens. I like them I’ve been trained on them that kind of thing, but no none of them are better than others They just really aren’t they all are after the same thing. That’s collagen. That’s infusion That’s hydration that healthy skin So definitely don’t think that you have to have a pen in order to perform this on yourself I hope that this was helpful you guys and I will definitely be doing of course more micro needling videos But I thought that it was a good idea just to put an overview out With some good parameters some good information and some best practices so that people have a reference video Hope you guys have a fantastic day and I will talk to you again very very soon

47 Comments

  • HappilyHealthFull says:

    This is why I love you and your videos ๐Ÿ’•! You are so incredibly knowledgeable, yet able to convert info to us in a way we easily get it.
    Thank you for this!! I mentioned micro needling in a video but made sure to say that YOU are the one to check out for expert advice and linked your info

  • Nuni Yang says:

    Thank you for the overview clarification. It has help me so much with microneedling. Love your videos โค๏ธ๐Ÿ‘

  • Becky C. says:

    Thanks Penn. this video will be a great addition to your microneedling playlist!

  • miu miu says:

    ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿ’–
    Thank you Penn
    Was doing nano every week and medical 0.5 every month since 4 month…I did only go 0.25 under eyes and forehead..could I increase to 0.5 under eyes?

  • Janet McLoughlin says:

    Penny have you used the Illuma Pen? If so can you give me your opinion?

  • Christen Dybenko says:

    Thanks Penn! How about depths for each part of the face when doing medical needling? Do you have a video on that?

  • Janet McLoughlin says:

    Thank you for this video! These procedures get very confusing.

  • Rainy Ladi says:

    I needed this video!! Thanks so much.

  • Elizabeth Laney says:

    Thank you Penny – great information!!! I always look forward to your videos!!!!
    I have a Friday Q&A for you – Exfoliation. How much is too much. Iโ€™m getting a little overwhelmed by all the different methods of exfoliating, Peels, scrubs, AHA & BHA, rice enzymes, Microdermabrasion devices, RetinA and so on, and so on. With my aging skin ( Iโ€™m 56) do I, does anyone need to be doing all of these types of exfoliating. If more than one type would be good to do – what kind of schedule would you recommend?

  • Laney R says:

    Thank you for sharing this information! I have been using a
    .75 needle depth once every 3 weeks but I'm going to do it every 4 weeks instead.

  • Julia says:

    I had a SkinPen treatment last October and I was really disappointed with the results. If medical needling needs to be done in a series to see results itโ€™s something that I just canโ€™t afford.

  • Barbara Booth says:

    I used my .75 Dermaroll last night. Can I go back to my .10 tomorrow or do I need to wait a few days after using the .75. Thanks

  • B Darley says:

    Very helpful, thanks Penn.

  • Mo K says:

    Amazing video. So informative. Thank you, Penny!

  • Tangella says:

    Thank you. You explain this topic extremely well.

  • Twins 4me says:

    Can you purchase a medical micro needle pen?

  • Cap Armstrong says:

    Penn this was so helpful. I wanted to ask you so many videos ago about using my derma roller. Iโ€™m not ready to buy the pen just yet, as I have an iPad replace NOW. I watch your videos on my iPad and it burned out last week ๐Ÿคฌ

  • lolabul bulle says:

    Thank you for all this valuable information..

  • Little Vamp says:

    Thanks Penny. I'm very intrigued by the BB Glow. Are you planning to an update at all? Lots of love. Tonia xxx

  • Zai Nab says:

    Please dear answer me
    These days I'm using ((ISIS unitone reveal 4 serum for pigmentation spots))
    Can I use dermapen 0.25mm then apply this serum??
    My mind to increase the absorption
    Can I do like that??
    Please advise me

  • Melanie says:

    I have a quick question because I also have the A6 Micro needling Pen what type of cartridge can I use for the cosmetic needling? Because I have the 12 pen cartridges and I also the 3D Nano cartridges.

  • Serene Artist says:

    Iโ€™d like to go up to .5 but Iโ€™m allergic to numbing cream ingredient lidocaine. Is it agony without numbing cream at that depth (Iโ€™m quite tough with pain) or bearable? Thank you so very much for such informative videos! I saw someone doing 2.5mm with Dr Pen and it was truly creepy. โฃ๏ธ

  • Amy Schmidt says:

    Hi Penny, thanks for the great update! I know that you have cautioned against doing too large of an area when the use of skin numbing treatments are involved. I have developed high pain threshold through my use of progressively deeper depths (over several years) derma rollers and do not use any skin numbing creams. Thanks to your advice I have now purchased a micro needling pen and love it and find it less painful, I believe concurrent surface hydration has helped,๐Ÿ’ง
    My question for you is when I perform my monthly medical depth needling (without the use of numbing cream) in about three weeks I I plan to my do face neck and chest in a single session , so should I change the cartridge at any point for this big big of an area? What about performing cosmetic needling for this big of an area, is the use of a single cartridge okay?
    Thanks for everything you post!!!!๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•

  • Michelle Busby says:

    I have psoriasis and have always been afraid to do this on my face because I didnt want psoriasis developing on my face. It can happen with any type injury that breaks the skin. Do you think nano would be ok for me…thanks

  • Sigal Greenbaum says:

    Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us,

  • Madame Susan says:

    What about the skin around your eyes (the skin you needle by pulling the skin over the orbital bone). Since this skin is thinner, is 0.25 still considered cosmetic needling on this area?

  • Marie Doherty says:

    This was so helpful! You have a wonderful way of presenting the info in a clear and simple way and thus empowering your audience! Thank you so much!

  • Sharon Quantrell says:

    When cosmetic derma rolling, is the vit C or growth factor applied before or after? When doing medical derma rolling, I'm assuming the hyaluronic acid is applied after? Should ithe skinthen be sealed with anything? Great video btw!

  • DeeJay West says:

    Thank You !!!! I feel better about my much loved dermaroller.

  • Dy'Zonn DyJour says:

    Hello I recently had another microneedling but this time with PRP. I had a bad experience with it. My pores were alot more visiable to the fact it made my skin look like a having a tiny breakouts and it did not make my skin smooth. Now I have 6 new large pimples. My skin got very dark. Far as what you explain I think I had medical needling (2.0) and (.5) forehead. I mention to the person about nano needling and they mention for my skin type that I will not see much results exp. since I have acne prone skin and large pores. I did get more peeling.

  • Forever 29 Beauty says:

    Any tips for how to repair skin if you have overdone it with acid or retinol?? I left the Obagi Microdermabrasion a little too long after using retinol the night prior. Ouch! Iโ€™ve been using the Skinceuticals phyto corrective gel mask and ceramides/ omegas but open to other suggestions ๐Ÿ˜ƒ๐Ÿฅต

  • Anne Hurst says:

    Should we medical needle if we are working on treating melasma? Is it contradicted when you are using products like Triluma?

  • HotMessNess MUA says:

    Liked first … now onto the video

  • B.J. Hall says:

    Thank you so much, Penny. I got a lot from this video, as always. The refresher is great. The dedication to your followers is unmatched!๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ’•

  • Julie Paolucci says:

    Great info thank you!!

  • Angelina Drobina says:

    Hello Penn I seem to have stumbled across a lot of hype about BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE
    LOTION P50 ORIGINAL "1970" do you have an opinion on it ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿป๐Ÿ™๐Ÿป๐Ÿ’‹๐Ÿ’‹

  • Rainy Ladi says:

    If I nano with Vitamin C, how can incorporate my Le Mieux TGF or the DNA Into my routine or should I just skip it that evening?

  • Maryann Rodriguez says:

    I'm using Timeless microdermer roller 0.5 . How many times can I use it till I have to purchase another one? Great video as always! โš˜

  • P Yellin says:

    Hi Penny- I love your channel! Thank you for all your hard work! I am not clear on why we should be using high molecular weight HA? This is the information I found from an ingredient website "The difference of the regular,ย high-molecular hyaluronic acidย (HA) and low-molecular-weight HA is that theย low-molecular weight HAย has been split into smaller fragments. Thereby, these smaller fragments can no longer form a gel with water like the large molecules, but they can penetrate the skin much easier and have actually a better anti-irritant and regenerating effect once absorbed by skin. The high molecular form of HA has a better hydrating effect than the low-molecular form of HA." ย I'd be so grateful for your insight!

  • Latifa AZZOLIN says:

    Thank you for the information . I search a book for the needling in frensh , but I don't find unfortunately , luckily let's see it to explain to us. we're lucky

  • Laura says:

    As a master esthetician, do you ever work on stretch marks on the abdomen? With diligent use, can a 1.5 derma-roller (pen) really remove old stretch marks from pregnancy ? Itโ€™s seems impossible, but some dermaroller sites promise that.

  • Karen says:

    After medical needling, will using a red light or a serum with collagen interrupt the collagen cycle?

  • Beth Yates says:

    What is the best peptide/serum for collagen growth after medical needling?

  • Sumer Tatum-Clem says:

    Hi, Penny! Thanks for another amazing video! I'm confused about something: what's the difference between using a nano head and using a regular head if they're both set at .25? Do I not understand something (probably, lol)? Thanks!

  • Diane Joa says:

    Excellent video. I have an older dr.pen and havenโ€™t found nano cartridges for it. Am I missing out on anything if I am micro needling and not nano? Thank you ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿป

  • Papermadepretty says:

    Hi Penny!! Love your channel honey! I have learned so much from you sharing your knowledge with us and in that I say thank you, thank you, thank you! I have a question…how long after a micro peel can one do a medical micro needling for collagen induction?

  • Reyna Civitate says:

    Thank you so much for all the information you provide.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *